After a very memorable and enjoyable trip to Siem Reap in July 2008, we decided to go back to Cambodia for another visit. This time, to the capital city of Phnom Penh.
While many tourists are lured to Siem Reap by the ancient cities and magnificent temples of Angkor, Phnom Penh offers something very different. A trip to Phnom Penh is an opportunity to visit places that are an integral part of Cambodia's history, the good and the bad.
Being the capital city, Phnom Penh is home to museums, historical buildings, foreign embassies, government organizations and a very large number of NGO's (non-government organizations). It is a peaceful city with a population of around 1.5 million people. Cambodia's total population stands at around 14.5 million people, of which 90% are ethnic Khmer. Cambodia also has a very young population (due to the massacres that took place under the Khmer Rogue), with the median age being 22 years.
Cambodia is a country that is still recovering from years of civil conflict that ended as late as 1999. It is a country that is desperately trying to put its past behind it and move forward. Like most third world countries, Cambodia faces the challenges of poverty, lack of infrastructure, lack of education, HIV/AIDS, hunger, homelessness and human exploitation. With all these challenges facing the country, we were very encouraged to see many foreign workers and large NGO's like Worldvision, UNICEF, Save the Children and The Red Cross present in the city, trying to help the Cambodian people rebuild their lives. There is still much that needs to be done.
Despite seeing some not so pleasant things on this trip (poverty, Tuol Sleng Genocide museum and The Killing Fields), we enjoyed our trip to Phnom Penh because it gave us a deeper understanding into Cambodia's history and the plight of its people. On the up side, we got a glimpse of just how resilient the Cambodian people are and we saw things that give us a great deal of hope for the country's future.
While many tourists are lured to Siem Reap by the ancient cities and magnificent temples of Angkor, Phnom Penh offers something very different. A trip to Phnom Penh is an opportunity to visit places that are an integral part of Cambodia's history, the good and the bad.
Being the capital city, Phnom Penh is home to museums, historical buildings, foreign embassies, government organizations and a very large number of NGO's (non-government organizations). It is a peaceful city with a population of around 1.5 million people. Cambodia's total population stands at around 14.5 million people, of which 90% are ethnic Khmer. Cambodia also has a very young population (due to the massacres that took place under the Khmer Rogue), with the median age being 22 years.
Cambodia is a country that is still recovering from years of civil conflict that ended as late as 1999. It is a country that is desperately trying to put its past behind it and move forward. Like most third world countries, Cambodia faces the challenges of poverty, lack of infrastructure, lack of education, HIV/AIDS, hunger, homelessness and human exploitation. With all these challenges facing the country, we were very encouraged to see many foreign workers and large NGO's like Worldvision, UNICEF, Save the Children and The Red Cross present in the city, trying to help the Cambodian people rebuild their lives. There is still much that needs to be done.
Despite seeing some not so pleasant things on this trip (poverty, Tuol Sleng Genocide museum and The Killing Fields), we enjoyed our trip to Phnom Penh because it gave us a deeper understanding into Cambodia's history and the plight of its people. On the up side, we got a glimpse of just how resilient the Cambodian people are and we saw things that give us a great deal of hope for the country's future.
Raffles Hotel Le Royal
The Raffles Hotel Le Royal was established in 1929. The hotel underwent a refurbishment under Raffles International and is a lovely hotel with an old-world colonial charm. We stayed here for three nights and had a wonderful stay in one of the landmark rooms.
The Raffles Hotel Le Royal was established in 1929. The hotel underwent a refurbishment under Raffles International and is a lovely hotel with an old-world colonial charm. We stayed here for three nights and had a wonderful stay in one of the landmark rooms.
Modes of Transport
We saw many different modes of transport in Phnom Penh, from bicycles, to rickshaws, to motorbikes, to motorized Tuk-tuks and even Lexus SUV's. In fact we have never seen so many Lexus SUV's in one city ! This is honestly not something we expected to see in Phnom Penh, but after asking around we were told that many belong to government officials and wealthy Cambodians (the absolute minority).
We hired a driver and car on the one day to take us to some of the sites outside of the city centre, and on another day we hired a Tuk-tuk, which was a fun way of getting around the city.
We saw many different modes of transport in Phnom Penh, from bicycles, to rickshaws, to motorbikes, to motorized Tuk-tuks and even Lexus SUV's. In fact we have never seen so many Lexus SUV's in one city ! This is honestly not something we expected to see in Phnom Penh, but after asking around we were told that many belong to government officials and wealthy Cambodians (the absolute minority).
We hired a driver and car on the one day to take us to some of the sites outside of the city centre, and on another day we hired a Tuk-tuk, which was a fun way of getting around the city.
Street Life
Life for most people in Cambodia is hard and people do what they have to do in order to make a living and survive (about 35% of Cambodians live under the poverty line). It was interesting to see all sorts of little businesses operating on the sidewalks, from a barber "stall", to a laundry service business, to a food stall, to a little makeshift eating place.
Life for most people in Cambodia is hard and people do what they have to do in order to make a living and survive (about 35% of Cambodians live under the poverty line). It was interesting to see all sorts of little businesses operating on the sidewalks, from a barber "stall", to a laundry service business, to a food stall, to a little makeshift eating place.
Street 178 and Street 240
These two streets in Phnom Penh are very popular with tourists. Street 178 has long been known as "Art Street", as many art shops, galleries, sculpture studios and handicraft shops can be found here. Street 240 is known for its collection of quality boutiques, silk shops and souvenir shops. Both these streets have some nice restaurants, cafes and coffee shops too.
These two streets in Phnom Penh are very popular with tourists. Street 178 has long been known as "Art Street", as many art shops, galleries, sculpture studios and handicraft shops can be found here. Street 240 is known for its collection of quality boutiques, silk shops and souvenir shops. Both these streets have some nice restaurants, cafes and coffee shops too.
The sad side of Phnom Penh
While walking along the streets of Phnom Penh, we came across a sight that really made us very sad - a homeless family sleeping on the sidewalk, with some of the children taking a nap in makeshift hammocks. This is nothing new in Cambodia and although there are many NGO's present to help the poor and destitute, there are many people who fall through the cracks. Another stark reminder of how blessed and fortunate we are.
The Riverfront Area and Sisowath Quay
The Riverfront area along Sisowath Quay, is popular with both locals and tourists alike. It is a nice area that has been cleaned-up and developed. Sisowath Quay is lined with restaurants, bars, cafes, souvenir shops, travel agents, hotels and guesthouses. The promenade offers a view of the Tonle Sap river. As much as this area has been developed, we did come across a squatter camp where people have permanently set up home on the promenade. Nevertheless, it was great to see the attempts that are being made to beautify this part of the city.
The Riverfront area along Sisowath Quay, is popular with both locals and tourists alike. It is a nice area that has been cleaned-up and developed. Sisowath Quay is lined with restaurants, bars, cafes, souvenir shops, travel agents, hotels and guesthouses. The promenade offers a view of the Tonle Sap river. As much as this area has been developed, we did come across a squatter camp where people have permanently set up home on the promenade. Nevertheless, it was great to see the attempts that are being made to beautify this part of the city.
Wat Phnom
Wat Phnom is one of the most important pagodas in Phnom Penh. It sits on a 30 metre high hill and marks the legendary founding place of Phnom Penh. According to the legend, the first pagoda on this site was erected in 1373 AD, to house four statues of Buddha that were deposited here by the waters of the Mekong river. These statues were said to have been discovered by a woman named Lady Penh (a statue of her stands across the street from Wat Phnom), who then built a hill (phnom) and a small temple (wat) at this site. Later the surrounding area became known for the hill (Phnom) and its creator (Penh), hence the city name "Phnom Penh".
The Royal Palace
The Royal Palace was built in 1866 under the French protectorate and King Norodom, although many of the buildings in the complex were added in the decades that followed. The buildings are in keeping with beautiful, traditional Khmer architecture - many tiered roofs, topped with towers which symbolize prosperity. The Royal Palace is regarded as a symbol of the whole nation and all the pavilions are adorned and painted yellow and white. The yellow represents Buddhism,while the white represents Brahmanism. We had a wonderful time walking around the magnificent grounds of the Royal Palace, where we got to see the magnificent architecture up-close. Today, the Royal Palace is used as the principal residence of their majesties the King and the Queen, and the royal family.
The Royal Palace was built in 1866 under the French protectorate and King Norodom, although many of the buildings in the complex were added in the decades that followed. The buildings are in keeping with beautiful, traditional Khmer architecture - many tiered roofs, topped with towers which symbolize prosperity. The Royal Palace is regarded as a symbol of the whole nation and all the pavilions are adorned and painted yellow and white. The yellow represents Buddhism,while the white represents Brahmanism. We had a wonderful time walking around the magnificent grounds of the Royal Palace, where we got to see the magnificent architecture up-close. Today, the Royal Palace is used as the principal residence of their majesties the King and the Queen, and the royal family.
The "Silver" Pagoda
The "Silver" Pagoda was built at the end of the 19th century and is situated on the grounds next to the Royal Palace. This pagoda gets its name from the silver tiles that line the floor inside. The Emerald Buddha is housed in the Silver Pagoda and although we were able to enter the pagoda after removing our shoes (and walk on the carpets covering the silver floor), we were not permitted to take any photos inside.
The "Silver" Pagoda was built at the end of the 19th century and is situated on the grounds next to the Royal Palace. This pagoda gets its name from the silver tiles that line the floor inside. The Emerald Buddha is housed in the Silver Pagoda and although we were able to enter the pagoda after removing our shoes (and walk on the carpets covering the silver floor), we were not permitted to take any photos inside.
Phsar Thmei (Central Market)
The Central Market is housed in a large art deco building that is one of the city's landmarks. Phnom Penh was once a French colonial city and there is evidence of this all around the city with some of the buildings and architecture. This building was constructed in 1937 and over the past few years has undergone a refurbishing project, with the interior reconstructed and the building given a new bright yellow paint job. This market sells everything from jewelery and precious stones, to houseware items and fresh foods. The fresh food section of this market was interesting, if not scary. Scary because from a health perspective, it was dirty and nothing was refrigerated, including all the meat and chicken (and there were flies everywhere!). Everything just lay out in the hot open air (it was very hot with the temperature hovering around 34 degrees Celsius). Surprisingly there were many customers making purchases and for the locals this is probably the norm. As we were leaving, we came across a lady and her daughter selling local snacks - fried lizards, tarantulas and bugs ! Unfortunately we were not brave enough to try any.
The Central Market is housed in a large art deco building that is one of the city's landmarks. Phnom Penh was once a French colonial city and there is evidence of this all around the city with some of the buildings and architecture. This building was constructed in 1937 and over the past few years has undergone a refurbishing project, with the interior reconstructed and the building given a new bright yellow paint job. This market sells everything from jewelery and precious stones, to houseware items and fresh foods. The fresh food section of this market was interesting, if not scary. Scary because from a health perspective, it was dirty and nothing was refrigerated, including all the meat and chicken (and there were flies everywhere!). Everything just lay out in the hot open air (it was very hot with the temperature hovering around 34 degrees Celsius). Surprisingly there were many customers making purchases and for the locals this is probably the norm. As we were leaving, we came across a lady and her daughter selling local snacks - fried lizards, tarantulas and bugs ! Unfortunately we were not brave enough to try any.
National Museum
The National Museum is housed in a distinct rust-red building. The outside of this museum is beautiful with its traditional Khmer architecture, as is the inner outdoor courtyard with statues and ponds. This museum is home to over 5000 sculptures, relics and artifacts, but the main highlights are those from the Angkorian era.
The National Museum is housed in a distinct rust-red building. The outside of this museum is beautiful with its traditional Khmer architecture, as is the inner outdoor courtyard with statues and ponds. This museum is home to over 5000 sculptures, relics and artifacts, but the main highlights are those from the Angkorian era.
Independence Monument
This monument was built in 1958 to commemorate Cambodia's independence from France in 1953. It is sometimes referred to as the Victory Monument and serves as a memorial to Cambodia's war dead.
Phsar Toul Tom Poung (Russian Market)
This market became the foreigners' market in the 1980's, when most of the foreigners in Cambodia were Russians, hence the name "Russian Market". It is a huge market with narrow aisles and definitely not for the claustrophobic. We found an array of goods for sale here, from souvenirs, silks and house ware items, to spare parts for cars, paints and a huge selection of DVD's and CD's. In the middle of the market, we came across a section with food vendors selling snacks and meals (the conditions didn't look hygenic, so we didn't try anything). There was also a section of the market reserved for vendors selling fresh fruits, vegetables and meats. Like the Central Market, this area was very dirty and nothing was refrigerated.
This market became the foreigners' market in the 1980's, when most of the foreigners in Cambodia were Russians, hence the name "Russian Market". It is a huge market with narrow aisles and definitely not for the claustrophobic. We found an array of goods for sale here, from souvenirs, silks and house ware items, to spare parts for cars, paints and a huge selection of DVD's and CD's. In the middle of the market, we came across a section with food vendors selling snacks and meals (the conditions didn't look hygenic, so we didn't try anything). There was also a section of the market reserved for vendors selling fresh fruits, vegetables and meats. Like the Central Market, this area was very dirty and nothing was refrigerated.
Boeung Keng Kang 1 (BKK1)
Boeung Keng Kang 1 is considered by many to be the city's "foreigner's quarter". This area is home to many NGO's, embassies and international organizations, as well as expat residences and hotels. This area definitely caters to foreigners with its many restaurants, cafes, bars, travel agents, silk shops and massage spas. We visited this area on our last day in Phnom Penh, with the sole purpose of having lunch at Hagar Restaurant and Catering Services.
Boeung Keng Kang 1 is considered by many to be the city's "foreigner's quarter". This area is home to many NGO's, embassies and international organizations, as well as expat residences and hotels. This area definitely caters to foreigners with its many restaurants, cafes, bars, travel agents, silk shops and massage spas. We visited this area on our last day in Phnom Penh, with the sole purpose of having lunch at Hagar Restaurant and Catering Services.
Hagar International
Among the many NGO's stationed in the Boeung Keng Kang area, is Hagar International. Hagar International is a Christian organization that was founded in 1994 by a man named Pierre Tami. Pierre Tami was so moved by the plight of Cambodia's destitute and abused women, that he decided to take action. From this action, Hagar International was born. The name "Hagar" means "one who fleas" or "one who seeks refuge".
Hagar International's main goal is to help women and children who have been victims of trafficking, rape, abuse, domestic violence and abandonment. The help provided comes in the form of recovery shelters, counseling, therapy, education and vocational training. The hope is that these women and children's lives will be restored, so that they can be successfully integrated back into the community. In addition to volunteering and donating money, the other way that tourists can help Hagar International, is by dining for a cause at its restaurant called Hagar Restaurant and Catering Services. We arrived at the restaurant before noon and it was empty, but about half an hour later the restaurant was packed with other tourists. The buffet lunch was enjoyable and we are so happy we could support this great cause.
Among the many NGO's stationed in the Boeung Keng Kang area, is Hagar International. Hagar International is a Christian organization that was founded in 1994 by a man named Pierre Tami. Pierre Tami was so moved by the plight of Cambodia's destitute and abused women, that he decided to take action. From this action, Hagar International was born. The name "Hagar" means "one who fleas" or "one who seeks refuge".
Hagar International's main goal is to help women and children who have been victims of trafficking, rape, abuse, domestic violence and abandonment. The help provided comes in the form of recovery shelters, counseling, therapy, education and vocational training. The hope is that these women and children's lives will be restored, so that they can be successfully integrated back into the community. In addition to volunteering and donating money, the other way that tourists can help Hagar International, is by dining for a cause at its restaurant called Hagar Restaurant and Catering Services. We arrived at the restaurant before noon and it was empty, but about half an hour later the restaurant was packed with other tourists. The buffet lunch was enjoyable and we are so happy we could support this great cause.
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