One of the highlights of our visit to Seoul, was a visit to the disquieting Korean Demilitarized Zone (DMZ). The DMZ is the section of land running across the Korean peninsula that is the buffer zone between North Korea and South Korea. The DMZ is 248 kms long and 4 kms wide, and is the most heavily militarized and fortified border in the world, with high fences topped with barbed wire, watchtowers, an antitank wall, tank traps and landmines. Most of the DMZ has been sealed off to human beings for at least 50 years, which ironically has made this area an ecological gem that is now home to rare plants and some endangered species like Manchurian cranes and white herons.
The USO (United Service Organizations) runs tours to the DMZ and we booked our tour weeks in advance of arriving in Seoul (we were told to do this as this tour fills up very quickly). For the tour, we had to ensure that we carried our passports with us at all times and we also had to adhere to a strict dress code (a requirement of the United Nations Command). On the day of our tour we were required to meet at Camp Kim USO at 7:00 am sharp. Upon arriving at Camp Kim USO, our passports were checked before we boarded a bus headed for the DMZ. We were a large tour group (approximately 80 people) and we were transported in two buses. Our tour guide mentioned that approximately 60% of the visitors to the DMZ are from the USA, with the remaining 40% coming from other parts of the world (over 75000 people visit the DMZ each year). There are quite a few countries (listed as "Designated Countries"), whose citizens are not allowed to visit the DMZ, surprisingly Singapore is one of these countries, as is South Korea. The first stop on our tour was 55 kms north of Seoul at the village of Panmunjom. Panmunjom is where the Armistice Agreement was signed to end the Korean War in 1953. It is also where North and South Korea conduct talks and armistice conversations. Panmunjom is also known as the Joint Security Area (JSA), jointly occupied by the UN and the communist armed forces. This is the only area in the DMZ where visitors are permitted. It took us about an hour and a half to reach Camp Bonifas. Camp Bonifas is the base camp for the United Nations Command Security Force - this is the unit whose main task is to provide all logistical support and security to all United Nations Command personnel working in the Joint Security Area. The men of this unit are also the tour guides for all visitors to this area.
Camp Bonifas is situated 400 meters south of the southern boundary of the DMZ. At the entrance to Camp Bonifas, Private First Class Coleman (our security escort for our tour) boarded our bus and did another ID check. The buses were then allowed through the security check point, but had to park in the designated parking lot at Camp Bonifas. We had to disembark at this point and board two army buses. We were given strict instructions at this point that we were not allowed to take any photographs until we reached the JSA. On our way to the JSA, we passed through the village of Taesong Dong or Freedom Village. The residents of this village have elected to reside on their ancestral homes rather than relocate to a safer life in the south. These residents are mostly farmers and although they live in this tense area and under very rigid curfews, they get paid very well for looking after the large farms in this area.
Upon reaching the JSA, we were escorted into Ballinger Hall where we were given a briefing by our military escorts. We were given strict instructions that we were not to point, or make any gestures, or say anything to the North Korean Soldiers. The atmosphere in this area is very tense and any military provocation is strongly prohibited. After our briefing we were then led to an outside area where we got an up-close and personal view of the JSA and Conference Row. Conference Row is a set of blue rectangular buildings, which include the Military Armistice Commission Buildings, where talks between North and South Korea take place. Conference Row is situated right in the middle of the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), which goes down the centre of the DMZ (the raised concrete portion that literally runs across the centre of these blue building). That said, these blue buildings are cut in half by the MDL, with one side of these blue buildings lying on the North Korean side of the DMZ and the other half of these buildings on the South Korean side of the DMZ.
Our visit to the JSA was a very interesting, if not sobering experience. Even though there have not been any major incidents in this area since the 1980's, when two people tried to defect, the atmosphere in this area remains tense and the military personnel are on high alert. As long as the two Korea's remain separate and the United Nations Command Military Armistice Commission exists, the soldiers of the JSA will continue to live up to their motto - "In front of them all".
Entrance to Camp Bonifas
JSA - Freedom House and Peace House.
Briefing at Ballinger Hall (in Freedom House) by our military escorts
View from Freedom House of Conference Row (blue rectangular buildings) and the North Korean Panmun-gak building behind.
North Korean soldier standing guard outside the Panmun-gak building
UN soldiers with their backs to us in a protective stance (keeping their eyes on their North Korean counterparts). The raised concrete section in the middle of these buildings marks the Military Demarcation Line (DML). The MDL passes through the centre of the negotiating table in the Military Armistice Commission Building. Unfortunately on the day we visited, we were not granted access inside the Military Armistice Commission Building due to H1N1 flu fears, otherwise we would have had the opportunity to stand on North Korean soil.
We were assured by our military escorts, that we were being closely watch by the north from this North Korean watchtower, situated to the right of the Panmun-gak building.
The 3rd Infiltration Tunnel
The 3rd Infiltration tunnel is situated 44 kms from Seoul and is one of four tunnels that has been discovered thus far. It is believed that these tunnels were dug by North Korea in order to carry out surprise attacks on Seoul. The South Korean military was informed of this tunnel by a North Korean defector in 1974. In 1978, South Korea was able to penetrate this tunnel and in 2004, the South Korean military bored a 358 meter long, 3 meter diameter tunnel, at a gradient of 11 degrees to access this 3rd Infiltration tunnel.
The 3rd Infiltration tunnel is 1635 meters in length and lies 73 meters below the surface. The tunnel is also 2 meters high and 2 meters wide. When the tunnel was discovered, it ran 1200 meters up to the Military Demarcation Line (DML) and 435 meters into the south. Today visitors can explore up to 265 meters at which point there is a concrete blockade (beyond which is the DML). We were given the option to walk down the bored tunnel to the 3rd Infiltration tunnel and it was an interesting experience. Before walking down, our guide suggested that anyone unfit or with medical conditions not go on this walk. This was good advice, as the walk from the bottom of the tunnel, up the steep gradient to the surface was quite strenuous. Unfortunately the taking of photographs inside the tunnel was strictly prohibited and we were all required to leave our cameras at security, That said, we unfortunately have no pictures to share.
The 3rd Infiltration tunnel is situated 44 kms from Seoul and is one of four tunnels that has been discovered thus far. It is believed that these tunnels were dug by North Korea in order to carry out surprise attacks on Seoul. The South Korean military was informed of this tunnel by a North Korean defector in 1974. In 1978, South Korea was able to penetrate this tunnel and in 2004, the South Korean military bored a 358 meter long, 3 meter diameter tunnel, at a gradient of 11 degrees to access this 3rd Infiltration tunnel.
The 3rd Infiltration tunnel is 1635 meters in length and lies 73 meters below the surface. The tunnel is also 2 meters high and 2 meters wide. When the tunnel was discovered, it ran 1200 meters up to the Military Demarcation Line (DML) and 435 meters into the south. Today visitors can explore up to 265 meters at which point there is a concrete blockade (beyond which is the DML). We were given the option to walk down the bored tunnel to the 3rd Infiltration tunnel and it was an interesting experience. Before walking down, our guide suggested that anyone unfit or with medical conditions not go on this walk. This was good advice, as the walk from the bottom of the tunnel, up the steep gradient to the surface was quite strenuous. Unfortunately the taking of photographs inside the tunnel was strictly prohibited and we were all required to leave our cameras at security, That said, we unfortunately have no pictures to share.
The Dora Observatory
The Dora Observatory is situated on top of Dorasan (Mount Dora). It is the part of South Korea that is the closest to North Korea and the observatory provides a view across the DMZ. On a clear day it is possible to see into North Korea as far as the city of Kaesong (using binoculars). Unfortunately on the day that we were there, it was very cloudy and hazy and we were only able to see parts of North Korea. The taking of photographs was strictly prohibited beyond a certain point and there were lots of security guards around to ensure everyone complied with this rule. That said, no one was able to take any pictures of North Korea from this observatory.
The Dora Observatory is situated on top of Dorasan (Mount Dora). It is the part of South Korea that is the closest to North Korea and the observatory provides a view across the DMZ. On a clear day it is possible to see into North Korea as far as the city of Kaesong (using binoculars). Unfortunately on the day that we were there, it was very cloudy and hazy and we were only able to see parts of North Korea. The taking of photographs was strictly prohibited beyond a certain point and there were lots of security guards around to ensure everyone complied with this rule. That said, no one was able to take any pictures of North Korea from this observatory.
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