Hutongs are the lattice of alleyways that run across the centre of Beijing. These alleyways are formed by lines of siheyuan (walled compounds with small homes/rooms around a common courtyard). Hutongs are the old residential neighbourhoods and they are very characteristic of Beijing. Visiting these hutongs is like taking a trip down history lane. These alleyways first appeared during the Yuan dynasty and by the Qing dynasty there were over 2000 hutongs in Beijing. The majority of hutongs run from east to west, with the main entrance facing the south (good feng shui). The main alleyways are linked by less significant alleyways that run north to south.
We decided to join a walking tour of the Hutongs to get a different perspective. What made this walking tour a little different and unique, is that it also focused on local food. The idea of the tour was to walk around parts of Beijing and more specifically some of the Hutongs, and along the way try some local foods.
The Chestnut Shop
We met our tour leader Adlyn and six other tourists outside this very popular chestnut shop in Beijing. The long queue says it all and Adlyn confirmed that locals flock here from all over the city to buy roasted chestnuts. This shop's chestnuts are apparently the best in Beijing - they are very plump and of the highest quality.
Hairy Crabs
The first stop on our tour was to look at some Hairy crabs. The Hairy crab season (between September and December) was in full force when we were in Beijing. We were first introduced to Hairy crabs when we visited Shanghai in 2007, but it would appear that this Shanghainese delicacy is just as popular in Beijing as it is in Shanghai. The most prized and pricey Hairy crabs come from the Yang Cheng Lake in Suzhou, an hours drive from Shanghai. The special ecological environment around this lake produces the best crabs and they have become so prized that each one is now tagged to prove origin. Hairy crabs are freshwater crabs and they are prized for their creamy roe, not their meat (unlike other types of crab, they don't have much meat). These crabs are sold by the weight and the genuine ones from the Yang Cheng Lake are expensive.
The first stop on our tour was to look at some Hairy crabs. The Hairy crab season (between September and December) was in full force when we were in Beijing. We were first introduced to Hairy crabs when we visited Shanghai in 2007, but it would appear that this Shanghainese delicacy is just as popular in Beijing as it is in Shanghai. The most prized and pricey Hairy crabs come from the Yang Cheng Lake in Suzhou, an hours drive from Shanghai. The special ecological environment around this lake produces the best crabs and they have become so prized that each one is now tagged to prove origin. Hairy crabs are freshwater crabs and they are prized for their creamy roe, not their meat (unlike other types of crab, they don't have much meat). These crabs are sold by the weight and the genuine ones from the Yang Cheng Lake are expensive.
Houhai Lake
After visiting the Hairy crab store we walked a short distance to the Houhai Lake area to have lunch. It is a lovely and peaceful area, and offers a relaxing environment away from the busy streets of Beijing. This area has become famous for its nightlife, as there are some popular restaurants and bars around the lake.
After visiting the Hairy crab store we walked a short distance to the Houhai Lake area to have lunch. It is a lovely and peaceful area, and offers a relaxing environment away from the busy streets of Beijing. This area has become famous for its nightlife, as there are some popular restaurants and bars around the lake.
Lunch at a Hakka Restaurant
We stopped for lunch at a Hakka Restaurant along Houhai Lake. Adlyn our tour guide did the ordering and we had a delicious meal consisting of steamed fish in a tomato-based sauce (their signature dish which was excellent), spicy beans, fried corn covered in tapioca flour (an unusual combination, but very tasty), steamed beef in a lotus leaf, braised Chinese spinach and of course rice. She also ordered Chrysanthemum tea which we all enjoyed. It was an enjoyable meal with good conversation and good company.
We stopped for lunch at a Hakka Restaurant along Houhai Lake. Adlyn our tour guide did the ordering and we had a delicious meal consisting of steamed fish in a tomato-based sauce (their signature dish which was excellent), spicy beans, fried corn covered in tapioca flour (an unusual combination, but very tasty), steamed beef in a lotus leaf, braised Chinese spinach and of course rice. She also ordered Chrysanthemum tea which we all enjoyed. It was an enjoyable meal with good conversation and good company.
Tanghulu
After lunch we resumed our walking tour and came across a Tanghulu vendor. Tanghulu is a very popular snack and Tanghulu vendors can be found all over the city. It is basically sugar coated fruit on a stick (once the sugar crystallizes it forms a translucent film over the fruit). The common fruits used are hawthorn, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, plums or whatever fruits are in season.
After lunch we resumed our walking tour and came across a Tanghulu vendor. Tanghulu is a very popular snack and Tanghulu vendors can be found all over the city. It is basically sugar coated fruit on a stick (once the sugar crystallizes it forms a translucent film over the fruit). The common fruits used are hawthorn, grapes, tomatoes, strawberries, plums or whatever fruits are in season.
Local store
We passed this local store and noticed some covered bottles which we had also seen around other parts of the city. We asked Adlyn what these were and she told us that they were bottles of douzhi, a beancurd drink that is very popular with the locals.
We passed this local store and noticed some covered bottles which we had also seen around other parts of the city. We asked Adlyn what these were and she told us that they were bottles of douzhi, a beancurd drink that is very popular with the locals.
Fangzhuanchang Hutong
After leaving the Houhai Lake area, we crossed a very busy road and soon found ourselves in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong. The first thing we noticed was how grey everything looked. We were told that back in ancient times, the colour of roof tiles were used to signify what a particular building was used for. Green roof tiles were used for temples, yellow tiles for the buildings of the emperor and grey tiles for the commoners. In keeping with tradition, all the roof tiles in the Hutongs are grey.
After leaving the Houhai Lake area, we crossed a very busy road and soon found ourselves in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong. The first thing we noticed was how grey everything looked. We were told that back in ancient times, the colour of roof tiles were used to signify what a particular building was used for. Green roof tiles were used for temples, yellow tiles for the buildings of the emperor and grey tiles for the commoners. In keeping with tradition, all the roof tiles in the Hutongs are grey.
Local steet vendor selling fruits in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
Local Tyre Repair Man in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
We got to see first hand how for some life is still incredibly hard. We came across this local man in the Hutong who repairs tyres for a living. He operates his business on the side of the alleyway, with a tin and board shack for a home.
We got to see first hand how for some life is still incredibly hard. We came across this local man in the Hutong who repairs tyres for a living. He operates his business on the side of the alleyway, with a tin and board shack for a home.
Entrance to courtyards in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
Most old courtyards date from the Qing dynasty and many courtyard houses have since been divided into smaller units (it is typical for one family to share a small unit). However many of the historical features remain, especially the roofs. Life in most of these hutongs is hard, because although there is electricity and running water, there are very few private toilets and bathroom facilities. Hence the large number of communal toilets and showers spread out around the hutongs. Residents of these hutongs pay to use these facilities.
Most old courtyards date from the Qing dynasty and many courtyard houses have since been divided into smaller units (it is typical for one family to share a small unit). However many of the historical features remain, especially the roofs. Life in most of these hutongs is hard, because although there is electricity and running water, there are very few private toilets and bathroom facilities. Hence the large number of communal toilets and showers spread out around the hutongs. Residents of these hutongs pay to use these facilities.
Electrical boxes
The number of electrical boxes outside a courtyard or in the entrance, indicates how many families live in that particular compound. From what Adlyn told us, it is common for one family to share a room/unit within a compound.
The number of electrical boxes outside a courtyard or in the entrance, indicates how many families live in that particular compound. From what Adlyn told us, it is common for one family to share a room/unit within a compound.
Historic courtyard gate in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
Beijing's more historic courtyard gates are accessed by a set of steps and flanked by ornate brick carvings. The level of detail of the carvings indicates the social status of the courtyard's original inhabitants.
Beijing's more historic courtyard gates are accessed by a set of steps and flanked by ornate brick carvings. The level of detail of the carvings indicates the social status of the courtyard's original inhabitants.
Venerable courtyard in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
Venerable courtyards are fronted by large doors, flanked by either a pair of Chinese lions or drum stones - two circular stones resembling drums, each on a small base and sometimes topped by a miniture lion or a small dragon head. Many of these impressive courtyards were the residences of Beijing's officials and wealthy families.
Venerable courtyards are fronted by large doors, flanked by either a pair of Chinese lions or drum stones - two circular stones resembling drums, each on a small base and sometimes topped by a miniture lion or a small dragon head. Many of these impressive courtyards were the residences of Beijing's officials and wealthy families.
Local shopping area in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
These hutongs are like self-contained communities. Not only are there residential homes in these hutongs, but also schools, shops, restaurants, grocery stores, clothing stores etc. People who live in these hutongs don't have to leave the hutongs, as everything they need is within these walls.
These hutongs are like self-contained communities. Not only are there residential homes in these hutongs, but also schools, shops, restaurants, grocery stores, clothing stores etc. People who live in these hutongs don't have to leave the hutongs, as everything they need is within these walls.
Coals used for heating up the homes in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong.
Preserved salted eggs.
Vegetable shop in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong.
Grocery shop in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong.
Home-made Tofu.
No not chocolate Tofu, but coagulated Pig's blood !
Raw meat exposed on the counter and not refrigerated.
Local vegetables like Bitter Melon and Chinese Long Beans.
A local shop in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong selling snacks like meat-filled roubing (cooked bread filled with finely chopped pork), deep fried vegetable balls and roasted peanuts. We got to try the roubing and the vegetable balls, and they were very good.
Local shop selling mantou (steamed bread) in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong.
Local eatery in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong.
The old-fashioned way of making Popcorn.
Milk Boxes in the Fangzhunchang Hutong
Milk is delivered to residents and placed inside these boxes which are located at the entrance to each courtyard.
Milk is delivered to residents and placed inside these boxes which are located at the entrance to each courtyard.
Local school in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong.
Taiwanese High-Mountain Tea shop in the Fangzhuanchang Hutong
We stopped here to try their signature banana and guava smoothie (delicious and refreshing), their plain spring onion omelette and their oyster and tomato omelette. This oyster and tomato omelette had a special ingredient in it - tapioca powder, which gave it a very gelatinous consistency (not many of us liked this dish).
We stopped here to try their signature banana and guava smoothie (delicious and refreshing), their plain spring onion omelette and their oyster and tomato omelette. This oyster and tomato omelette had a special ingredient in it - tapioca powder, which gave it a very gelatinous consistency (not many of us liked this dish).
Nanluogu xiang Hutong
After a snack at the Taiwanese High-Mountain Tea Shop we walked to another hutong - Nanluogu xiang Hutong. This hutong is over 800 years old, but was fully refurbished before the 2008 Olympics. This area has become very trendy, with nice shops and restaurants.
After a snack at the Taiwanese High-Mountain Tea Shop we walked to another hutong - Nanluogu xiang Hutong. This hutong is over 800 years old, but was fully refurbished before the 2008 Olympics. This area has become very trendy, with nice shops and restaurants.
Wen Yu Cheese Shop
The last stop on our tour was at the "Wen Yu Cheese Shop". Although the shop's name has the word "cheese" in it, the product sold is more like a thick custard/yoghurt (reminded us of Panacotta). This "cheese" is famous because it was served only to the imperial family during the Qing Dynasty. Today of course it is available to everyone and this shop is extrememly popular and is usually packed with people throughout the day. Adlyn mentioned that they only make a certain amount of cheese each day, so once they have sold out of the cheese, they close for the day.
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