We flew to Beijing on the 10th October for an seven day visit. We spent five days in Beijing and two days in Xi'an. One of our main reasons for visiting both these cities was to see The Great Wall and the Terracotta Warriors and Horses. Our experience in Beijing and Xi'an far exceeded our expectations and we are so glad that we went. Beijing is a big city with an official population of around 18 million people. The weather in Beijing and Xi'an was wonderful - between 9 and 24 degrees, so much cooler than Singapore and very comfortable. We had a very pleasant stay at The Swissotel Beijing for four nights, then flew to Xi'an for two nights (stayed at the Sofitel), before coming back to Beijing where we stayed at The Raffles Beijing for one night.
With China having opened its doors to the west and Beijing having hosted the 2008 Olympics, we definitely expected a modernized city and in many ways it is. That said, mixed in with all the modern buildings and influences, lies a wealth of history, culture and precious historical sights. The surprising thing for us, was the number of Chinese tourists in and around the city (there were many Chinese tour groups and people just about everywhere!). As China moves away from a state-controlled economy to a more free market economy, so to have some of the people embraced the idea and seen first hand how free enterprise can lead to an improved livelihood and standard of living (not all the city's residents have embraced the change, especially the elderly, migrant workers and middle-aged unemployed who can only look on as the younger generation enjoys the fruits of Beijing's transformation). As more and more Chinese make a better living, so to does their ability to travel and for many, the pilgrimage to the capital Beijing is a must-do. Beijing is steeped in history and culture, and for some this is the trip of a lifetime. As much as some peoples' standard of living has improved, there are still many poor people and people who live under very difficult circumstances.
Unlike in Shanghai, David did not attract any pushy vendors trying to sell him fake watches, DVD's and T-shirts, in fact peddlers in Beijing were not aggressive at all (we definitely appreciated this!). One woman wanted David to pose for a photograph with her son (the novelty of having a photo taken with a Caucasian person), but that was the extent of anyone trying to impose on us. Interestingly enough, Beijingers consider themselves to be very different to their Shanghai or Hong Kong counterparts. They dislike the shrewdness of the Hong Kong Chinese and the stinginess of the Shanghainese, and see themselves as being rather conservative, generous and straightforward.
Based on our experience in Shanghai and Kunshan in 2007, the one glaring thing that was the same in Beijing and Xi'an, was people spitting on the sidewalks and in the streets. We were very surprised to see many people still doing this, despite the government discouraging it (well they tried to for the Olympics anyway). Perhaps Beijingers have changed their ways and it could very well be that the people spitting on the sidewalks in Beijing, are visitors from other parts of China who probably don't know any better.
We found Beijing to be a very safe city with a strong police presence. With Chinese people and the Chinese government in particular, it is all about saving face and avoiding any kind of public embarrassment or humiliation. The government wants to ensure that Beijing the capital, is looked upon in a good light and therefore takes the necessary steps to ensure that law and order is strictly enforced. We got the impression that this might not necessarily be the case in the other provinces of China. For example one thing that was very apparent, was the distinct difference between taxis in Beijing and those in Xi'an. The taxis in Beijing are like the taxis in Singapore, that is there is very little security or protection for the driver. However in Xi'an, all the taxis have thick steel bars separating the drivers from passengers, thus ensuring the safety of the drivers.
The one difficulty we did encounter in both Beijing and Xian was that many people outside of the hotels did not speak English, but fortunately we were expecting this and so we went as prepared as we could.
Overall we had a very interesting trip to Beijing and Xi'an, and are thrilled that we got to see the major sights and got to experience some of the culture. Sam came away with the same sentiment she had after our trip to Shanghai and that is she feels grateful and indebted to her grandparents for having had the courage to leave China for a better life somewhere else (who knows what her life would have been like had her grandparents remained in China). The irony is that life for her grandparents wasn't necessarily easier or better in South Africa, but their actions certainly paved the way for a better life for her.
The Raffles Beijing
The Raffles Beijing is situated in one of the historic buildings in Beijing and is close to Tiananmen Square. We had a wonderful stay there.
Modes of Transport
The days whereby the majority of Chinese in the city of Beijing used bicycles for transport is a thing of the past. There are still people using bicycles, mopeds and motorbikes, but there are also many people who have traded up to motor vehicles. We saw many different types of vehicles, from little silver tins on wheels, to nippy Chinese QQ's, to very expensive luxury vehicles. Surprisingly we saw many new model Audi's on the streets of Beijing (it is a very popular car). What was interesting to learn is that Volkswagen first established itself in China about 25 years ago and today is one of the largest foreign car makers in China (from statistics released in 2005, Volkswagen had 18% of the market share in China). We were even more surprised to learn that the Volkswagen Audi (in black of course) is the official vehicle of the Chinese Communist Party.
The days whereby the majority of Chinese in the city of Beijing used bicycles for transport is a thing of the past. There are still people using bicycles, mopeds and motorbikes, but there are also many people who have traded up to motor vehicles. We saw many different types of vehicles, from little silver tins on wheels, to nippy Chinese QQ's, to very expensive luxury vehicles. Surprisingly we saw many new model Audi's on the streets of Beijing (it is a very popular car). What was interesting to learn is that Volkswagen first established itself in China about 25 years ago and today is one of the largest foreign car makers in China (from statistics released in 2005, Volkswagen had 18% of the market share in China). We were even more surprised to learn that the Volkswagen Audi (in black of course) is the official vehicle of the Chinese Communist Party.
English Signs
We are pretty sure that there are probably more English signs around the city now, than there have ever been (thanks to the Beijing Olympics!). However, not all seem to have been reviewed for errors - we came across this sign at one of the major tourist attractions (The Summer Palace) and had a good chuckle !
We are pretty sure that there are probably more English signs around the city now, than there have ever been (thanks to the Beijing Olympics!). However, not all seem to have been reviewed for errors - we came across this sign at one of the major tourist attractions (The Summer Palace) and had a good chuckle !
The Olympic Sites
The National Stadium (Bird's Nest) and National Aquatic Centre (Water Cube) which became iconic structures in 2008, are situated about 14 kms north of the centre of Beijing. On the day that we visited The Great Wall and The Summer Palace, we made a last stop here and unfortunately it was late, so we didn't have time to go inside. We had to settle for seeing both structures from the outside and they are impressive.
The National Stadium (Bird's Nest) and National Aquatic Centre (Water Cube) which became iconic structures in 2008, are situated about 14 kms north of the centre of Beijing. On the day that we visited The Great Wall and The Summer Palace, we made a last stop here and unfortunately it was late, so we didn't have time to go inside. We had to settle for seeing both structures from the outside and they are impressive.
Peking Duck
We were fortunate to have Peking Duck on two occasion while in Beijing. Both times we had Peking Duck at a restaurant called "DaDong Peking Duck Restaurant". We were told (by more than one person) that this restaurant is one of the best restaurants in Beijing for Peking Duck. They have a great reputation in Beijing and are renown for their crispy, lean ducks. We were treated to Peking Duck by one of David's colleagues and then we went once on our own. On the evening that we went on our own, we made sure we got there early to miss the crowds (the restaurant was packed on the night we went with David's colleague and we had to wait over an hour for a table). This restaurant has an open concept kitchen and we were able to watch the chefs as they roasted the ducks in the huge furnaces. As each duck was taken out of the furnace, it was drained of its juices and placed on a tray. It was then taken to the patron's table where it was carved. Each person was given a tray with various condiments to compliment the duck. These condiments included white sugar granules (eaten with the duck skin only - an old imperial predilection), plum sauce, radish strips, cucumber strips, finely cut scallions and garlic paste. Although this restaurant's speciality is Peking Duck, it has an extensive selection of other dishes and the menu is huge (fortunately there were English descriptions and pictures of each dish). On the night that we went on our own, we shared a delicious Salmon Sashimi salad, a plate of prawns and half a duck with pancakes and sesame buns. For dessert we had dumplings filled with black sesame paste in a hot coconut soup. Everything was really delicious !
We were fortunate to have Peking Duck on two occasion while in Beijing. Both times we had Peking Duck at a restaurant called "DaDong Peking Duck Restaurant". We were told (by more than one person) that this restaurant is one of the best restaurants in Beijing for Peking Duck. They have a great reputation in Beijing and are renown for their crispy, lean ducks. We were treated to Peking Duck by one of David's colleagues and then we went once on our own. On the evening that we went on our own, we made sure we got there early to miss the crowds (the restaurant was packed on the night we went with David's colleague and we had to wait over an hour for a table). This restaurant has an open concept kitchen and we were able to watch the chefs as they roasted the ducks in the huge furnaces. As each duck was taken out of the furnace, it was drained of its juices and placed on a tray. It was then taken to the patron's table where it was carved. Each person was given a tray with various condiments to compliment the duck. These condiments included white sugar granules (eaten with the duck skin only - an old imperial predilection), plum sauce, radish strips, cucumber strips, finely cut scallions and garlic paste. Although this restaurant's speciality is Peking Duck, it has an extensive selection of other dishes and the menu is huge (fortunately there were English descriptions and pictures of each dish). On the night that we went on our own, we shared a delicious Salmon Sashimi salad, a plate of prawns and half a duck with pancakes and sesame buns. For dessert we had dumplings filled with black sesame paste in a hot coconut soup. Everything was really delicious !
Beijing Zoo
We made a visit to the Beijing zoo to see the Giant Pandas. The Beijing zoo has a special section just for the Pandas and when we arrived at the zoo we made a beeline for this section (we went early to miss the crowds). The first Pandas that we saw were the cute little endangered brown ones that they call the Lesser Pandas or Red Pandas. These Lesser Pandas are only found in the Himalayas, Northern India, Bhutan and Northern Myanmar. Unfortunately their population is on the decline due to deforestation and poaching.
Next stop was to see the Giant Pandas. The Beijing zoo has two outdoor sections where some of the Giant Pandas can be found and then there are two pavilions that house some of the other Pandas. They are fascinating creatures and we had a wonderful time just observing them. Shy and reclusive by nature, they don't adhere to any set schedules, so some were sleeping, some were walking around, some were playing and others were chewing on bamboo. They are beautiful mammals and we hope that more is done to protect this endangered species.
We made a visit to the Beijing zoo to see the Giant Pandas. The Beijing zoo has a special section just for the Pandas and when we arrived at the zoo we made a beeline for this section (we went early to miss the crowds). The first Pandas that we saw were the cute little endangered brown ones that they call the Lesser Pandas or Red Pandas. These Lesser Pandas are only found in the Himalayas, Northern India, Bhutan and Northern Myanmar. Unfortunately their population is on the decline due to deforestation and poaching.
Next stop was to see the Giant Pandas. The Beijing zoo has two outdoor sections where some of the Giant Pandas can be found and then there are two pavilions that house some of the other Pandas. They are fascinating creatures and we had a wonderful time just observing them. Shy and reclusive by nature, they don't adhere to any set schedules, so some were sleeping, some were walking around, some were playing and others were chewing on bamboo. They are beautiful mammals and we hope that more is done to protect this endangered species.
Wangfujing Street
Wangfujing Street is one of the most famous shopping streets in Beijing and is home to over 250 famous brands. This street is a short walk away from The Raffles Hotel, so it was convenient for us to get there. Wangfujing Street is a pedestrian street and it is common to find this street full of people. Fortunately on the one day that we went, there weren't too many people in the street and it was a pleasure to visit. On our second visit, it was crowded, so we headed for a tea shop, bought some tea and left.
Wangfujing Street is one of the most famous shopping streets in Beijing and is home to over 250 famous brands. This street is a short walk away from The Raffles Hotel, so it was convenient for us to get there. Wangfujing Street is a pedestrian street and it is common to find this street full of people. Fortunately on the one day that we went, there weren't too many people in the street and it was a pleasure to visit. On our second visit, it was crowded, so we headed for a tea shop, bought some tea and left.
Wangfujing Snack Street
This street is situated just off main Wangfuging street and is famous for its snack food. We had read that this is a good place to get Muslim cuisine like lamb kebabs and flat bread. Many people think of Chinese food in a homogenous light, but this is not the case. Most of the Muslin stalls on Wangfujing Snack Street are run by Uyghurs (pronounced Wee-gurs). Uyghurs are Asians from XinJiang, China's largest and western-most province. The Uyghur population is around 6 million and they are predominantly Muslim. They resemble people from the Mediteranean and they have remained culturally distinct (some don't even speak Chinese). Uyghurs are mostly farmers and many came to Beijing to earn a better livelihood. These Uyghurs who came to Beijing brought with them their food, hence the Muslim influence that now exists. Not only did we see lamb, mutton, chicken and beef kebabs, but we also saw some really strange things like insects, scorpions and sea creatures on sticks (all are alive before they get cooked!). Needless to say we didn't try any of these. We did try a "normal" kebab (a pita bread pocket with chicken) and a pancake filled with vegetables. Both were quite tasty.
This street is situated just off main Wangfuging street and is famous for its snack food. We had read that this is a good place to get Muslim cuisine like lamb kebabs and flat bread. Many people think of Chinese food in a homogenous light, but this is not the case. Most of the Muslin stalls on Wangfujing Snack Street are run by Uyghurs (pronounced Wee-gurs). Uyghurs are Asians from XinJiang, China's largest and western-most province. The Uyghur population is around 6 million and they are predominantly Muslim. They resemble people from the Mediteranean and they have remained culturally distinct (some don't even speak Chinese). Uyghurs are mostly farmers and many came to Beijing to earn a better livelihood. These Uyghurs who came to Beijing brought with them their food, hence the Muslim influence that now exists. Not only did we see lamb, mutton, chicken and beef kebabs, but we also saw some really strange things like insects, scorpions and sea creatures on sticks (all are alive before they get cooked!). Needless to say we didn't try any of these. We did try a "normal" kebab (a pita bread pocket with chicken) and a pancake filled with vegetables. Both were quite tasty.
Ten Fu's Tea Shop
Ten Fu's Tea Shop has over 25 branches across Beijing. The branch we visited was on Wangfujing street. They are known for stocking top-quality tea from all over the country. We had a good time tasting different teas and brought some to take home.
Ten Fu's Tea Shop has over 25 branches across Beijing. The branch we visited was on Wangfujing street. They are known for stocking top-quality tea from all over the country. We had a good time tasting different teas and brought some to take home.
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